![]() Outdoors you usually stay at pretty high power levels though, and from 1/4 power and up it is as stable as setting the power level on the unit itself which removes the possibility of changing power from the remote. So yeah, if you have a grey card in the shot at all times and you enjoy masking out the rest of your scene and changing its temp in post, sure. And it's not stable from shot to shot either. Well, the color temp change is about 2000 kelvins off the more normal temperature when you're in 1/64 and 1/128 with a tint change in excess of +-20 in Lightroom. That's great too as i shoot both Canon and Sony. I've noticed they are releasing a version for Sony for the a7 series with TTL and HSS support. Hope that the Odin II will get some firmware updates. I'm a long-term, very happy user of Odin originals, with no plans to change. What is SCS and what is it used for? I come from the paul C buff world and full manual so im not familiar with these fancy terms lol ! The Odin II does not offer SCS for Canon - the Odin original did offer SCS. I'm not too worried though if it only happens once in a while, because shooting RAW, this can always be corrected in post.Īlso Indras with current firmware can not take advantage of all the new features introduced on the 'II'. It does not occur if the low power setting is dialed in on the unit itself. This occurs when the unit is at low power under both ETTL & remotely adjusted M flash. from what I've read, generally people seem pretty impressed - the only exception being that it seems common to get a colour temp change at low flash powers. If used at 1/2 power (320Ws) then the flash time in Action mode should be more than short enough to freeze a dancer in mid air.įlash Duration (t.5) 1/2,000 second at full powerįlash Duration (t.1) - in Action Mode from 1/588 to 1/13,500 secondįlash Duration (t. Instead of high speed sync, which reduces the power of a flash dramatically, the OP would be better off buying or renting a strobe with a short flash duration. ![]() But if you have a lot of ambient light and/or need to use a lot of power from the strobe, it really doesn't matter because either the strobe will have a too long duration time because you are maxing it out or if you want to keep some of the ambient light in the scene and just fill, you will introduce motion blur because of the ambient light regardless of how fast the strobe is. Others have pointed out that you can use a strobe which has a shorter duration as well. Your SB-900 will provide high speed sync so you can use shutter speeds up to 1/8000, but as you say it's a bit weak.įor alternatives you can look to (for example) the Phottix Indra500 and Profoto B1 which provides high speed sync with 500Ws. ![]() You can always venture into high speed sync or hypersync territory. I'm shooting a D810, and my SB-900 will work fine, but I need quite a bit more light than that provides. I don't know if the wireless transmitter is introducing some lag in the process, and the use of a sync cord may trigger faster, or if it is just the strobe itself that is not compatible with high speed capture. I find that my cheap Cowboy studio 320's will only do about 1/160 before the shutter starts to interfere with the illumination. I'm talking dancers doing jumps/leaps and fast kicks that need 1/800 or faster shutter speed. Wondering what others use for off-camera lighting (besides speedlights) to capture fast action images.
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